9 hour overnight train ride, on a machine built no later than the 1930's. 4 bunk beds, 1 small cabin. My travel buddy and I, along with a married couple. In such close quarters, you become intimate very quickly. Engaging in conversation, turns out our American cabin-mate is a Vietnam war veteran, recently retired. Naturally, we discussed the politics and war of that time, Johnson, McNamara, Diem, the war and his views. Nice 3 hour conversation of back and forth. Slept like a log, train ride, not as bad as I thought.
Arrive in the wee hours of the morning in a town an hour away from Sapa. You have to take a shuttle, to SAPA your tour guide will be waiting for you. Tour company, nice and cheap to have, but not really necessary. We arrive in Sapa, but hotel won't check you in. Its too early. So you head for a mediocre breakfast and lounge in the hotel lobby for a couple of hours till your tour guide shows up around noon.
We head for the hike, eclectic group of folks. Spanish, Dutch, English and of course Egyptians. The hike across the rice patties and fields are beautiful. It was cloudy, but still very quite striking scenery. All along our tour guide is talking, and i have my ipod on. When we started the hike, a group of locals in traditional garments joined us. I wasn't sure why. they were very friendly, spoke English well, were inquisitive, down to earth and very warm. Which made me suspicious. Are we walking into a trap?
We stop for raw sugar cane, wundabar! fresh, natural and costs $1, enough to feed all the hikers. We pass by the remote villages, very tranquil, few people bother us. We arrive at a restaurant, prepared meal is ready for us. Simple, nothing special. Remember the locals following us: well, this the part where they want to sell you some handmade wallets, scarfs, etc. They were very respectful, and weren't pushy. When they were done, they simply left, home to their villages. I was wrong, I had my guard up, expecting something odd going on. I was very wrong. If you ever make it to Sapa, please buy something from them on my behalf, will gladly send you a check.
After lunch, hike continues till we return to Sapa. Hike is long (6-7 hours, but mostly downhill). Bring water and snacks, you will need it. We pass a couple of other villages, schools, rice patties, etc. Back in Sapa, we check into Panorama Hotel. Excellent place. Next day, we do the same thing. Food was good in Sapa, not as good as Hanoi, but still pretty good. Next day, we hike to another town and enjoy a motorcycle ride back to down, I call the Sapa roller coaster. All fun, lovely, natural, untouched part of Vietnam, very much recommended.
