Buenos Aires: means good air. If the cool, clean breeze isn't the first thing that strikes you when you land in the capital, then the energy of the city will. They say BA is the Paris of South America, I think BA is a great city in its own right, not comparable to others, and is certainly better than Paris. Je suis Desole mon ami!
One piece of advice I got from a friend, get lost in the streets of BA, when you do, get lost some more. A city of contrasts, older magnificent architecture highlight the glory of days gone by and contrast ugly buildings built during military dictatorships and financial meltdowns. The contrast is what gives BA its charm. The food, especially, beef and steak, will put any Texas chef to shame. The Tango will make any other dance look amateurish. The Bohemian areas melt with the working class neighborhoods of La Boca. Buenos Aires has no end.
Currency: The official exchange rate undervalues your USD significantly. You can get triple the rates in the black market. Exchange USD for Pesos at Calle Flordia, you will find several guys standing around yelling Cambio, Cambio, meaning exchange. They are mostly legit, but keep an eye out for the one fake currency paper they might give you.
Taxis: are cheap and abundant, word of caution, make sure the driver switches on the meter. Some will not and claim alot higher fare when you arrive.
The neighborhoods: Called Barrios in Spanish. Recoletta (the fanciest neighborhoods and the most central, tree-lined streets separate french style buildings with cafes, restaurants and hotels), Palermo (There is Palermo Soho, which is the Bohemian part of BA, Palermo Hollywood, named so because of the tv studios, but has good restaurants, bars, and antique shopping), La Boca (means the mouth, home to immigrants and Boca Juniors football club. Colored 2 story buildings line up the cobbled stone streets), San Telmo (one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA has a huge flea market on weekends that shouldn't be missed). Puerto Madero (newest and trendiest neighborhoods in town, home to fancy restaurants, water views, and home to the famous Puente de la Mujer bridge), Downtown (home to Plaza Mayo and the seat of government buildings such as ministry of finance and the Casa Rosada)
Where to stay? Recommend staying in Recoletta due to its central location. We stayed at a basic budget, no frills hotel called Hotel Zentra.
What to do?
- Walk up and down 25 de Mayo st and then head east to west on 9 de Julio St. to take in BA. Marvel at the street width and the architecture that covets the area.
- Palacio de Aguas Calientes in Recoletta is a masterpiece of architecture, there is a museum on the first floor. I would skip, just focus on the building.
- The Obelisk in the middle of 25 de Mayo will remind you of DC.
- Palacio Barolo is probably the most beautiful building in BA, you can get amazing city views from there. But check time and holiday schedule. They are closed alot. The interior is modeled after Dante's Divine Comedy. The first floors are hell, then purgatory, then the last couple of floors are heaven.
- Teatro Colon on 25 de Julio is a stunning testament to the glory days of BA. There are some indoor tours, but seeing it from the outside is enough.
- The cemetery in Recoletta, home to Evita's final resting place and other famous Argentinians. This isn't your typical graveyard, each plot is a shrine.
- MALBA: Museum of Latin American Art is not to be missed if you want to check out the cultural side of BA. The surrounding neighborhood is full of purple flower trees and lovely buildings. Take a stroll after seeing the art. The museum cafe is also excellent.
- Puerto Madero, walk up and down the deck and get a good glimpse of the towers, restaurants and cafes lining up the view. The Puente de la Mujer bridge is at the end and gives the city a very different view. Don't eat at the restaurants there, they are more expensive, decent quality, but you can get a better elsewhere.
- San Telmo, go on the weekend and walk around the flea market, bargain down 30%-40% off asking price and pick up some really cool souvenirs and gifts. The buildings are old, but charming and transport you to another era in BA architecture.
- Florias Generica is a large steel flower that opens and folds depending on the time of the day. The area around it has a wonderful park.
- The Galielo Planiterium is cool to see from the outside, don't need to go in.
- Enjoy the bohemian streets and cafes that line up Palermo Soho, a very cool vibe.
- Palermo Hollywood is great for nightlife.
- Casa Rosada, which is BA's version of the whitehouse. It's a pretty ugly looking building.
- There is the Congress, which also looks like it's US sister. Catderal Metropolitana, is a beautiful neo-classical church. The finance ministry is not too far and boasts of an era of wealth long gone.
- La Boca, 2 storied colored buildings, looks like Alice in Wonderland, great place to catch the sunset.
- Calle Florida and downtown for shopping. This is the business district, expect alot of people during the day and be aware of pick pockets.
- If you are done with BA, take a ferry to La Colonia, Uruguay. That way you get to visit 2 countries on the same trip. Nothing special there, actually pretty boring, but if you want that stamp, go for it.
Where to eat? You do not leave BA without eating as much beef, meat and steak as you can possibly handle. My favourites were: Don Julio in Palermo, La Cabrera and La Cabrera Norte (2 places, same owner), they have a great happy hour, everything is off 40%, between 7-8. Its a little touristy though. Another great one is Parilla Pena. Stop by any bakery and pick up some pastries, and small finger food for reasonable prices. Also, have gelato at the many Italian places scattered around the city.
Cafes: The parallels between BA and Paris are evident everywhere, especially the cafes. Gran Cafe Tortoni is the most elegant and classic, its also the most well known having been established in 1858. It's touristy and expensive, but you are paying for ambiance. For a better deal, i would head to Bartola in Palermo Soho. Oui Oui is a really good one and not too far. One of the best is Libros del Pasaje, its also a bookshop, its cozy and just wonderful.