1 Comment

Mexico City: the Real Mexico (Not the American Version)

Most people know Mexico via Cancun, Cabo, Cozumel, Acapulco, etc. The highly charged tourist hotspots with little legal constraints, spring-breakers and stunning beaches. I am guilty to have visited these touristy spots way before I made it to Mexico City. That has now changed. A Capital that can rival Madrid, Lisbon, Cairo and Rome. A bustling metropolis of 20 million people with a diverse culture and vibe that starkly contrasts the blasphemy of Donald Trump and anti-immigration supporters. This place is worthy.

You don't need more than 3 days in Mexico City. If you want to see the pyramids, add a fourth. The city itself is not a tourist mecca, but more of an immersion into the Mexican way of life.

Itinerary:

Day 1: Angel of independence, walk along La Reforma st checking different statues, shops.         Last sunday of the month, the street is closed to pedestrian only traffic and amateur             running races. Anthropology Museum, and its surrounding park. Chapultepec castle is near       by and quite a hike. Zocalo and the historical plaza, followed by a stroll through Madero's           busy pedestrian street for shopping and food. At the end is the Sears buidling, where the         top floor coffee shop has a stunning view of the Bellas Artes Muesum. 

Day 2: Frida Kahlo Museum, Trostsky museum. Spend some time enjoying                       coyacan's food markets and plaza. Head to Mexican wrestling Lucha Libre. 

Day 3: Spend the day roaming the bohemian Roma Norte and Roma Sur. Later check the           Soumaya museum and walk around Condesa and Palanco for upscale flair of Mexico's elite.       This last day has some room to fit in missed items from action packed day 1. 

Airport: Keep all immigration documents they give you, which includes a small piece of paper that many lose and end up having to pay a $25 penalty before they leave back home. Exchange money, preferably at a bank or currency exchange in town, but if you need some pesos, get them from the booths after you leave the arrival gate, not the ones you see before. Also, hire a cab from one of the nearby booths, its pre-pay according to destination and you won't have to haggle with the driver. 

What to see: To get the touristy stuff out of the way, visit the Museum of Anthropology, very impressive, alot of statues and stone carvings celebrating the Mayan and Aztec empires. Spend 3-4 hours and get an English speaking guide so you know what your looking at. Entry is cheap, $3. Usually there is a line, but better to get tickets online before you go.

Frida Kahlo Museum and Trotsky's house in Coyacan are impressive, but don't go if you don't like her art or his politics.  If you go, spend 4 hours between both. But remember the line at Kahlo's museum is long. If you are lucky, the website might let you by tickets. Continuous error messages are the norm. When done head to the center plaza in Coyacan enjoy the atmosphere filled with street vendors, shops, restaurants and bars. There is a food market not too far from there. 

The Soumaya museum is awesome, and worth spending some time there.  The architecture is stunning from the outside matched by the relics and replicas in the inside (Michelangelo Buonarroti, and Rodin, to name a few).

Historical Center (Zocalo) is awesome and most impressive of all the Spanish speaking countries, which pretty much have the exact same layout, but not to the scale and grandeur of Mexico. Absorb the wonderful architecture, visit the church and the palace. Murals of Diego Rivera and an Aztex temple are close by and worth a stop.  

Chapultepec Castle, quite a hike with good views of Mexico City. the Castle is a house, and not that impressive of a museum. In my opinion, can be skipped.

Palace Des Belles Artes, beautiful building with fine arts. The building facade is better than the art works inside.

Angel of independence and other statues on La Reforma st. Do not miss out on Mexican wrestling, you can buy tickets at ticket master booths across the city. Do not be cheap, get the most expensive ($20) seats and enjoy the show.

Transportation: Use Uber, incredibly cheap, half hour journeys cost $8 USD. Learn the subway system, very efficient way of getting around a city with stand still traffic. 

Where to eat: Food stands, get your hands on street tacos, tortas, chorizo and tamales when you get a chance.

Historical center / Zocolo: Tacos de Canasta Los Especiales. You will see a huge line of locals for the steamed tacos and fresh guacamole. For Dinner head to Azul Historico for amazing ambiance and great food. Every month, they dedicate part of the menu for cuisine specific to a region of Mexcio. Coffee at Sears tower for a view of Bellas artes. For good views of the historical center head to El Balcon or Zocalo coffee shop. For a great food market, head to mercado de San Juan. You need to be specific when looking for directions, its off the beaten path, and there are 3 other San Juan markets. You are looking for Gastronomica (food market) and it's helpful to say Ernesto Pugibet market. 

Biko in Palanco is pricey, rated 2nd best in Mexico and one of the world's top 50, not worth it in my opinion.

For authentic Mexican food head to Taqueria Alvaro in Roma Norte for a flair of cheap eats. Mercado Roma is a gourmet food market with pretty good food, but doesn't beat the street food and local eats. For good Churros, head to El Churero. Check out the neighboring Argentinian and Uruguayan steak houses.

Coyacan: the Coyacan food market is great, with options ranging from steak to seafood and everything in between. A la carte menus galore at the many food stalls making up this eclectic market. 

Where to party: For a burning man experience in the heart of the city, do not leave without checking out Patrick Miller. It's so different that it got a nod from Vice. Not far from it is P-109, fantastic place with great music in the second story of an apartment building. Rhodesia and Pata Negra are not as good, but worth checking out. For a more normal / laid back scene check out Pan y Circo, Departmento, aurora and Limantour, all are awesome and packed with locals.

Where to stay: I would stick with Roma Norte in the heart of the city and close to most neighborhoods you wanna check out. It's easy to get stuck in traffic and you want to minimize your commute time. Tip: look for a hotel / Airbnb not far from an underground station.

Safety: You think I might rant about lack of safety or I saw drug smuggling deals happen all over the city. Wrong! The city is very safe in all the neighborhoods we visited. Can't vouch for other areas. But the city is significantly safer than what people lead you to believe. Don't worry. 

1 Comment

1 Comment

Seoul: Vibrant and full of soul

On a 14 hour layover in Seoul, its worth leaving the airport and seeing the city. It will take 1.5 hours to leave the airport, and another 1 hour to get to the center of the city. So 14 is now down to 11.5 hours, and when you take into consideration the way back, you are left 9 hours. Yes, it's worth it, but anything less, probably not. 

Exchange money at the airport, you won't need more than $80 / pp for a whole day including transportation. Get maps from the tourist kiosk. Take the fast train to Seoul Station, do not take the regular train. Note the gas mask cupboard in the train station. Just in case, their neighbors to the North try something. Get the train schedule so you can time your return. 

I did walk to all the venues below. You could take cabs and move alot faster. I like to walk. From what little I saw, Korea is a very modern city, resembling Tokyo, but with alot less ancient / medieval buildings. They don't seem to have made it through time. Nonetheless, it's charming and people are very helpful.

First visit the traditional market "Namdaemun Market", traditional food stalls against a backdrop of shops selling Korean goodies, like Ginseng,  to souvenirs to clothes. 

Near the market is Sungnyemun gate, which Koreans consider their number one monument. The city is coveted with modern sky scrappers, making these ancient monuments a rare commodity in the developed country. 

Off to Myeongdong, a shopping area which is very similar to Japan. You will find tourist gudies wearing red outfits and a red cowboy hat. They are helpful telling you which stores to visit, there first recommendation was the hello kitty cafe, i'll pass. Then there was a cafe where you can pet puppies, ill skip that. The third option was a K-pop recommendation, and thank you very much for your help, but I'll figure it out from here. Didn't stop anywhere except at a food stall and got some fried octopus dipped in seaeme oil and hot sauce, which was good, but nothing to rave about. They have some kind of traditional sushi made of seaweed, that was better. Coffee at the stalls was pretty good as well. I made a stop at Myeondong Cathedral during Sunday mass. Didn't stay long, but I wouldn't go out of my way to see it.

You close to Deoksugung Palace, take a look from the outside, then, if you have time, take a cab to the Seoul tower, with a great view of the city. Something I didnt have the time to do.  

Went to an old temple with a large bell called Bosingak Belfry, if you hit at the right time, there will be a show with actors dressed in traditional Korean attire and holding medieval weapons. Off to Tapgol park, which has a large ancient tower encased in a glass building. Park is pretty tranquil. Jogyesa temple isn't far and worth seeing with its intricate art work, many colorful lanterns and flocks of worshippers. Entry isn't alloweed with cameras. 

Then off to Insadong, another huge shopping area. Great view of the mountains and artistic shops selling Korean arts. Now for a meal, found an amazing -off the beaten track- dumpling place that sell Mandu Dumplings, the best I've ever had. It's in a small alley way off the major Insadong st. It is buzzing with locals, and despite not knowing the name and no English menu, found a website with someone raving about the place. You order off the pictures, I would go with a mix of steamed and fried dumplings. Here is the link. Other foods to try, Bibimap and Kimchi (cabbage and squid)

After a meal like that, and looking at my watch, it was a day well spent. Time to head back to the airport. Take a cab to Seoul station and take your fast train back.

 

1 Comment

Comment

A place to start, but not to end: Argentina

Buenos Aires: means good air. If the cool, clean breeze isn't the first thing that strikes you when you land in the capital, then the energy of the city will. They say BA is the Paris of South America, I think BA is a great city in its own right, not comparable to others, and is certainly better than Paris. Je suis Desole mon ami!

One piece of advice I got from a friend, get lost in the streets of BA, when you do, get lost some more. A city of contrasts, older magnificent architecture highlight the glory of days gone by and contrast ugly buildings built during military dictatorships and financial meltdowns. The contrast is what gives BA its charm. The food, especially, beef and steak, will put any Texas chef to shame. The Tango will make any other dance look amateurish. The Bohemian areas melt with the working class neighborhoods of La Boca. Buenos Aires has no end.

Currency: The official exchange rate undervalues your USD significantly. You can get triple the rates in the black market. Exchange USD for Pesos at Calle Flordia, you will find several guys standing around yelling Cambio, Cambio, meaning exchange. They are mostly legit, but keep an eye out for the one fake currency paper they might give you. 

Taxis: are cheap and abundant, word of caution, make sure the driver switches on the meter. Some will not and claim alot higher fare when you arrive. 

The neighborhoods: Called Barrios in Spanish. Recoletta (the fanciest neighborhoods and the most central, tree-lined streets separate french style buildings with cafes, restaurants and hotels), Palermo (There is Palermo Soho, which is the Bohemian part of BA, Palermo Hollywood, named so because of the tv studios, but has good restaurants, bars, and antique shopping), La Boca (means the mouth, home to immigrants and Boca Juniors football club. Colored 2 story buildings line up the cobbled stone streets), San Telmo (one of the oldest neighborhoods in BA has a huge flea market on weekends that shouldn't be missed). Puerto Madero (newest and trendiest neighborhoods in town, home to fancy restaurants, water views, and home to the famous Puente de la Mujer bridge), Downtown (home to Plaza Mayo and the seat of government buildings such as ministry of finance and the Casa Rosada)

Where to stay? Recommend staying in Recoletta due to its central location. We stayed at a basic budget, no frills hotel called Hotel Zentra. 

What to do?

  1. Walk up and down 25 de Mayo st and then head east to west on 9 de Julio St. to take in BA. Marvel at the street width and the architecture that covets the area.
  2. Palacio de Aguas Calientes in Recoletta is a masterpiece of architecture, there is a museum on the first floor. I would skip, just focus on the building.
  3. The Obelisk in the middle of 25 de Mayo will remind you of DC.
  4. Palacio Barolo is probably the most beautiful building in BA, you can get amazing city views from there. But check time and holiday schedule. They are closed alot. The interior is modeled after Dante's Divine Comedy. The first floors are hell, then purgatory, then the last couple of floors are heaven.
  5. Teatro Colon on 25 de Julio is a stunning testament to the glory days of BA. There are some indoor tours, but seeing it from the outside is enough.
  6. The cemetery in Recoletta, home to Evita's final resting place and other famous Argentinians. This isn't your typical graveyard, each plot is a shrine.
  7. MALBA: Museum of Latin American Art is not to be missed if you want to check out the cultural side of BA. The surrounding neighborhood is full of purple flower trees and lovely buildings. Take a stroll after seeing the art. The museum cafe is also excellent.
  8. Puerto Madero, walk up and down the deck and get a good glimpse of the towers, restaurants and cafes lining up the view. The Puente de la Mujer bridge is at the end and gives the city a very different view. Don't eat at the restaurants there, they are more expensive, decent quality, but you can get a better elsewhere.
  9. San Telmo, go on the weekend and walk around the flea market, bargain down 30%-40% off asking price and pick up some really cool souvenirs and gifts. The buildings are old, but charming and transport you to another era in BA architecture. 
  10. Florias Generica is a large steel flower that opens and folds depending on the time of the day. The area around it has a wonderful park.
  11. The Galielo Planiterium is cool to see from the outside, don't need to go in.
  12. Enjoy the bohemian streets and cafes that line up Palermo Soho, a very cool vibe.
  13. Palermo Hollywood is great for nightlife.
  14. Casa Rosada, which is BA's version of the whitehouse. It's a pretty ugly looking building. 
  15. There is the Congress, which also looks like it's US sister. Catderal Metropolitana, is a beautiful neo-classical church. The finance ministry is not too far and boasts of an era of wealth long gone.
  16. La Boca, 2 storied colored buildings, looks like Alice in Wonderland, great place to catch the sunset.
  17. Calle Florida and downtown for shopping. This is the business district, expect alot of people during the day and be aware of pick pockets.
  18. If you are done with BA, take a ferry to La Colonia, Uruguay. That way you get to visit 2 countries on the same trip. Nothing special there, actually pretty boring, but if you want that stamp, go for it.

Where to eat? You do not leave BA without eating as much beef, meat and steak as you can possibly handle. My favourites were: Don Julio in Palermo, La Cabrera and La Cabrera Norte (2 places, same owner), they have a great happy hour, everything is off 40%, between 7-8. Its a little touristy though. Another great one is Parilla Pena. Stop by any bakery and pick up some pastries, and small finger food for reasonable prices. Also, have gelato at the many Italian places scattered around the city.

Cafes: The parallels between BA and Paris are evident everywhere, especially the cafes. Gran Cafe Tortoni is the most elegant and classic, its also the most well known having been established in 1858. It's touristy and expensive, but you are paying for ambiance. For a better deal, i would head to Bartola in Palermo Soho. Oui Oui is a really good one and not too far. One of the best is Libros del Pasaje, its also a bookshop, its cozy and just wonderful.

Comment

2 Comments

Unforbidden & Unchained: Cuba Libre

The winds of change are sweeping through Cuba like the waves crash against Havana's most famous sea-walk, El Malecon. Change can't come fast enough for some, but might be too much for others. We met with half a dozen Cubans over 3 days, discussing the thawing relations with the US, their internal politics, and how best to enjoy Cuba as tourists descend on the once isolated island nation. 

Very Important Tips: Do not take US dollars down to the island. Take Euros or Pesos. You are automatically deducted 13% when using dollars to get Cuban Pesos. Most of your money should be converted to CUC (Cuban Convertables $1- 1 CUC) This is what taxi cabs, restaurants and bars accept. The locals use CUP (Cuban Pesos $1: 24 CUP), you want to convert no more than $20 to buy something from street vendors. Take a guide book, the internet is spotty at best. I used Lonely Planet.

Getting there? Several options. Easiest is via Mexico or Panama City. Copa Airlines, Aero Mexico or Canada Air all fly to Havana. You will have to book tickets seperatly from the US to one of those cities and then to Havana. At immigration, you might be asked to present health insurance. We weren't. If you don't have it, you are forced to buy at $5 a day rate. We were asked whether we wanted our passport stamped, we said yes. It won't be long before US carriers will be flying there. The first cruise ship docked the day we were leaving. 

Where to stay? I would stay near Havana Vieja (Old Havana) or the Eastern part of Vedado (a upper class residential neighborhood). Airbnb is currently the best option, hotels are expensive ($165 and above), and in most cases run down.   We spent 3 days in Havana, and you don't need much more than that to adequately see the city and meet the people.

Cigar lover? If you want to buy Cigars, buy them at the hotels. Do not buy them on the streets from shoddy vendors, they are fake. Do not buy at the airport, they are overpriced. I would get the Monte Cristo, its a top brand with medium to strong flavor.

Souvenir Shopping: If you want to buy souvenirs, do not buy from touristy old Havana. There is a small market near hotel Habana Libre in Vedado near Calle L and 22nd. Negotiate everything, start with 50% off asking price and you will end up at 60%-70%.

Seeing the city on a tight schedule? The best way to see Havana is via a tour in a classic car. You can rent one with a driver right in front of the National Theater in the Center of Havana (Costs 60 CUCs). You will get to see all the highlights Havana has to offer, from there you can determine where you want to spend your time.

Off we go: Havana is divided in the 3 areas, Old Havana, Centro (Central) and Vedado. Old Havana is a gem of Spanish colonial architecture. You can spend hours roaming the streets, getting lost as you move from one plaza to the next. Plaza de San Fransisco was my favourite. An old Church overshadows the square of cobbled stone streets. El Catderal Plaza was another place worth stopping by. Obispo st has some used book vendors that line up against its gardens. But Mercardes is the busiest street and the best preserved. 

Visit hotels like Ambos Mundos (great rooftop bar), Florida, Frailes hotel.  The area is touristy, full of souvenir shops and a growing list of restaurants serving rejuvenated Cuban cuisine. There are several hot spots that revolve around Hemingway like the Floridita bar, where he enjoyed Daiquiris and La Bodugeta where he sipped on the famous Mojitos. I personally couldn't care less about what Hemingway did in Havana. Places tend to highlight that he ate here, drank there or baptized this wall during a drunken escapade. A great writer, but I don't give a crap about where he crapped.  Way overblown in my opinion. These places tend to be tourist traps, expensive and of low quality.  

I would enjoy the sunset from the Fortaleza, which is a fort with the best views of Havana. A canon show starts at 9 pm, and I would get there by 7 pm to roam the fort and catch the sunset. From Old Havana to the fort is 4 CUCs. El Malecon which is the street on the city's sea wall, runs more than 15 miles and is a great place to sea the sunset and meet some of the many locals that congregate there in the evenings, listening to music, drinking beers and smoking cigars. Cubans are very friendly, and you will find many willing to engage you. We met several people, and will share our discussions later.

Central Havana is where you get to see the real Havana. These are the slums of the city, dilapitaded buildings, uneven streets, unemployed youth roaming aimlessly. The ware and tear of communism takes center stage in these neighborhoods and is not something you want to miss if you want to see the real people and how they live. The Capital buiding you cant miss, even if your tried. The National theater is a masterpiece representing an era of opulence and decadence, a far cry from its surrounding neighborhoods. Some really good hotels like Ingelterra (my favourite), Seville, Saratoga, and Nacional. Go for coffee and a snack at the lobby of any of these hotels where all of them have a band playing good Cuban music. 

Vedado, the upper scale neighborhood is home to Revolution Plaza with monuments commemorating Jose Marti and Che Guevara. Not to be missed. The national cemetery is not far, and is a massive graveyard dawned with elaborate tombs. They are similar to Puerto Rico's San Juan tombs, I would skip going and save the 5 CUC fee. The dead don't have much to offer.

Where to eat? Whatever you do, don't leave Havana without eating Yuca fries, Moro (Rice and Beans), Lobster and Flan. 

In old Havana there is Dona Eutimia which serves local flare. Get the Picadillo a la habanera (ground beef dish cooked to perfection), flan and fish croquettes. Price 12-15 CUCS with coffee and water. Make a reservation, they get really busy. Paladar de Mercardes is great, I had a fish stew, but it is really expensive (30 CUCS). 

In Vevado, there is El Cimmaron, serves awesome Lobster, Pulpo (Octopus) and Shrimp ($15-$20 CUCs). Breakfast is great as well.

In Central Havana, there is a good pizza place called Mimosa, with authentic Italian flair and a dark, but romantic ambiance. For a good Chorizo Y Queso sandwich and a Guava pastry, head to Dulcinea. 

Do not miss out on sugar cane juice sold via stalls all over the city.

Entertainment & Nightlife: As I mentioned some hotels have bands playing Cuban salsa music, but for a full blown experience, i would head to the Tropicana club, and for 75 CUCs enjoy a show that would put Cirque Du Soleil to shame. Havana has a buzzing nightlife. In old Havana there is 3er Piso, full of locals, and not far from the Capital building. In Vevado, Amarillo Submarine (yellow submarine) a bar dedicated to the Beatles but plays great American pop and Spanish music. Jazz Cafe bear Habana Libre hotel offers a relaxed environment. The best is Fabrica de Artes, recommended by tourists and locals alike. It's an art galley, a bar and a nightclub all housed in an old factory. Get their early, long lines and they do stop taking people in around 1:00 am on busy nights.

Meeting people: As for the multiple meetings and interviews we had, we met several people. I want to thank them for their openness and candor in discussing politics, culture and the many aspects of Cuban life. They are: Gustavo Rena, our Airbnb host. Jose Carlos (business owner), Ernesto C. (a journalist) Manuela K (a merchant), Aidara and Carlos (students), Raoul J (a vegetable seller). We spent a couple of hours each day interacting with people, thanks to Obama's people to people education allowance. Here is a summary of where people stand: 

Many Cubans love the United States, and want normal relations between the 2 countries. They want to own their own business, improve their livelihood and practice the same freedoms we have here. Many believed in Castro, his revolution, but by the early 90's they lost hope. There are others who are very reluctant to change, they firmly believe in the Marxist - Leninist model, and Fidel's revolution. They don't want anything to change, they have good healthcare, decent jobs, great education and do not need material things from life. These were the students, they were very idealistic.

Some were reluctant to discuss politics, and it is best not to press the matter. However, all of them agreed that change is coming to the isolated Island, and the pace of change remains disputed. The US congress has yet to remove sanctions, and Raoul Castro is moving at a very slow place to enact change. This trip would have not been possible if it weren't for the relaxation of rules by the Obama administration. We visited Cuba, because we fulfilled the Journalistic requirement (by documenting this trip on my travel blog), people to people education (by meeting, visiting and interviewing locals) and Professional business with Weddings in Houston magazine (investigating weddings in Cuba). If you do not meet the requirements stated by the Treasury Department, we advise not going.  

All in, everyone loved to talk about their culture, their music, especially the famous Celia Cruz, and their food. We are thankful to have met so many wonderful people, and we appreciate their openness and candor. 

Thanks to Vik Day & Porter Nolan for working with me on this piece. 

2 Comments

1 Comment

Uganda: The Pearl of Africa & Source of the Nile

This covers Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe. Thanks to my friend Stanely Kazibwe for local advice. 

Many don't venture to the African land locked country, don't know,why it's a hidden gem. Rightfully called the Pearl of Africa because of what it has to offer. Kampala, the capital city, is made of seven hills. Each hill has a religious institution, a Sunni mosque (built by Qaddafi), a synagogue, a hindu temple, a Bahai temple, Catholic church, etc....where would you find such diversity and tolerance in one city? especially in Africa? Erase, ofcourse, the tenure of President Idi Amin, the Last King of Scotland. 

But Uganda to me is very special, this trip to Africa focuses on hitting all the countries on the Nile. Ethiopia, Tanzania, Uganda, Egypt and I skipped the Sudans (US passport visa issues). Uganda is where lake Victoria turns into the Nile, the world's longest river and the only one that streams south to north. Google it. The Nile is not a river to us Egyptians, its a source of life and civilization dating back 7 millenia. That's why the trip is special to me.

At a bus station in the middle of the city, thousands of buses congregate and i was amazed with the religious stickers they had on their cars. Islamic, Hindu, Buddhist, Christian, etc. Was I in NYC? If it weren't for the red soil that blankets the ground, I thought I might have been.

Kampala is not that difficult to get around. Motocycles, also called "Boda-Boda" zip through the unpaved streets and take you anywhere in the city for a buck or two. Boda-Boda, originally means border to border, and it meant transportation taking you from the border of Uganda to the border of Rwanda. Or I've been told. There is alot to do in Kampala, and there is no better way to do it than with Walters Boda Boda Tours. Seriously, this guy is an icon in Uganda. His city tour takes you across all the highlights: the religious institutions, the hills, the parliament, the Kasubi tombs of Ugandan kings, the presidential palace where you see the Idi Amin's Rolls Royce and visit some of the prison chambers. Chilling stuff and you can easily spend a full fledged active day.

I also recommend asking Walter and his team for local recommendation. At night, I would go ahead and visit a couple of the local bars, the patrons are always very friendly and welcoming. Went to a couple of upscale places: Wagadougou, Capital Bar, Silk. Kampala has a large white expat community since its the African HQ of the UN. Food wasn't great, and i mostly stuck to grilled meats and beans. 

I liked Walter's tour so much, I hired him to head to Jinga, where I get to see for myself where Lake Victoria pours into the Nile. The ride is pleasurable, yet long. But you get a good glimpse into the Ugandan country side. You stop by several markets, still be careful to eat grilled meats only or bananas. 

Before setting off on a boat tour of fishing villages. You pause at a statue of Gandhi. Yes, there is a large presence of Indians in Uganda. However, Gandhi's wish was that some of his ashes be scattered into the Nile. Reasons abound, but the one I was told, was his desire to spread peace throughout war torn Africa. 

Visiting the fishing villages is unique. On the boat, we actually fish and what we catch will be cooked at the fishing villages. So after a cave incursion and successful fishing, we sat in a shack, in the middle of Jinja's greens, and ate wonderfully grilled fish. This isnt touristy, you see the poverty of the village, the semi naked kids running around, the women washing clothes and the men gathering. They join you for the meal and pleasant conversation ensues on local customs and culture. Now off to my goal: the source of the Nile.

I am imagining water falls, or something dramatic. There is a book titled into Africa talking about the years, expeditions, deaths of the courageous Englishmen seeking the source of the world's longest river. I can't wait. And behold, no water falls, no massive water gushing, just a simple stream from the lake that gets narrower at source. Ok, disappointing, yes, Egyptian seeks river source, and almost falls asleep. Oh well! Trip was still fantastic though and well worth it.

Alright, one more day. Head to Entebbe, and the major attraction there is Lake Victoria and a plane the Israeli commandos raided to free hostages. There is also a reptile village not to be missed, see snakes and Cobras. Enjoyed a relaxing day at the Country Lake Resort, where locals are so curious about you, they love to come up and chat. 

What you need to know: Budget foir $20-30 per day. I used Airbnb, where i met the host and they gave me great recommendations. You need to get vaccinated before you go, yellow fever especially, they might not let you in the country if you don't have a certificate. Bring protein bars, toilet paper, hand sanitizer and be very careful what you eat, stick to sizzling hot grilled meats. I went when there was an Ebola outbreak, don't let people scare you. Cases are uusally rare and concentrated outside the major cities. Remember that whole fiasco here in the States? 

1 Comment

1 Comment

Siam Reap: New Destination, Ancient Location

Every Cambodian will tell you: Siam Reap was a sleepy town till Angelina Jolie filmed Tomb Raider. Have never seen Tomb Raider, but I can see why they filmed there and the attention the spot is getting from travel enthusiasts. 

First thing you notice about Cambodia, its really hot & dry, all year round!. Stay hydrated! The airport is new, but an organizational mess. In acquiring my visa, to skip the line, you pay an extra $5. Don't need to tell me twice. A Lexus 4-wheel cab takes you from the airport to your hotel for $12. We stayed at Popular Residence, which is a little bit off the beaten path (10 minutes by Tok-Tok, $2 ride to town center), with a nice pool, lovely staff and very comfortable room. A good hotel with air-conditioning is important given the dry climate. 

We hired a tour company, Buffalo Tours, something we don't traditionally do, but it was cheap $100 (divided by 2 people) They pick you up in your hotel, drive you in a air-conditioned Toyota, give you constant supply of water, and interesting information about the temples. When we saw other travellers struggling in the heat, walking long distances, we knew we made the right choice by going with a tour company. They are at your beck and call, will take you to whatever temples you want to see. They aren't stuck on an itenieray. The flexibility we value.

We visited 3 temples, Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, and Bayan. We also did a couple of small temples on the side, but these 3 are the important ones. The temples are a mix of Hindi and Buddhist gods and deities, I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Attacked by my monkeys: on approaching Bayan, there were dozens of moneys outside the temple, some resting on cars. Didn't pay them any mind. As i was standing, one of them climbed my leg, as I stared at it, it was uninhibited. It ended up on my shoulder as gathers started laughing. So did I. The tour guide made it seem like a dangerous situation, it wasn't! All it wanted was water. A second monkey approached and climbed as well. At that point, despite the heat, I threw out my 2 water bottles, the monkeys un-humped me, ran towards the bottles, and I felt whole again. But water supply now diminished. The whole thing was caught on video.

How about Siam Reap? the old town and market are quite charming. Full of vendors and restaurants and clubs. Siam Reap is a party town. They line up several streets in a big square. We stopped by for good Cambodian food, which ended up being decent curry. But for the most part, the food was unimaginative. There was a street vendor selling scorpions, cockroaches and other unidentifiable bugs as a delicacy. We skipped that. Had scorpion in China, that was good enough. We tried several spots (Italian, American, etc) over our 2 day stay but found no food worth mentioning. At the market, i recommend heavily bargaining, you can walk away with about 50%-60% off asking price. There are some nice statutes, paintings, and clothes that you can pick up for friends back home. 

On the trip we met some interesting people: A couple from Tennessee, who up and left the States 30 years ago. They travel around Southeast Asia playing music. Our conversation centered on politics, religion, the local culture and the environment. We also met an Iranian who fled the Islamic Regime to East Germany, where he tunneled to the West, learned the langugae and has been teaching in Japan for 20 years. He moved to Cambodia two years ago, met his Cambodian wife and started a business. He was very insightful, giving us tips on the local economy, how life there was very difficult for the locals, little healthcare, and expensive staples. 

Word of caution: the massage places in Cambodia are alot more shady and significantly cheaper than Vietnam. Girls walk around trying to sell you a one hour massage for $3. I would avoid them like the plague. There are many beggars and hagglers, be careful. No reason to be alarmed, but worthy to stay vigilant. You need no more than 2 days in Siam Reap and 

1 Comment

1 Comment

Uyuni: Got Salt?

If you see any photo of the salt flats and you don't want to jump on a plane and head straight there, you don't have the travel bug, & you can't buy it, learn it or grow it. See that x on the top right, click it and move on, thanks!

We flew in from La Paz to Uyuni on Amazonas air, pretty good airline. Shame what we have become accustomed to in the States. But I digress. You are landing in a pretty remote airport, so don't expect frills. They get you and your bags there, don't fuss. Standard cab fare to the town, can be arranged by your tour company. If I ever were to say that the selection of a safari / tour company is critical, this is the one time. The company is Red Planet. Do not pick someone else. Here is why" it's not the service, its not the price, its not the guide. It's simply the Hot Springs (one of the grandest experiences of my travels is floating in a Hot Spring at night, on a mountain that's 5,000 meters above see level). All tour operators get you there, but what Red Planet does, is get you there at dusk before the rest of the operators who arrive just after dawn the next day. You and your group are the only ones there and you have the Spring to yourself and group (8 ppl, and yes, you do have ample room). Next morning, there will be 2 dozen jeeps with 8 times as many people fighting to get into the Spring. Its like pigs fighting under a blanket. Horror. We actually felt sorry, because they missed the experience when it was empty and had the night sky and stars blanket your view. Can't stress this enough: Red Planet.

ok, Day 1, is all about the salt flats. The pictures are enough, we had a blast. Taking stupid photos, played Frisbee, walked for a mile or two, starring at nothing but the vastness and the beauty of the honey combed ground, stretched as far as the eye can see.  2 major regrets: a) bring the flag of your country and plant it in the area where others have done the same. Leave your mark. b) Should have had a football with me (soccer for the yanks). The flats are so smooth, couldn't stop thinking how great it would be to play a game of pick up. At night, you stay in a dorm made of salt. very cool.

Day 2: Amazing scenery, the green lake, the red lake. The water is actually as green as the Hulk's skin and the other as Red as when Moses turned the Nile's waters to blood (yes, i was there. No, I don't have pictures) Wild life in these remote areas were amazing, flamingos for one. Who doesn't like flamingos? Enjoy the mountains terrain, colors out of fantasy land. Finally Geysers. These were my first, so I was really impressed. Here you get to the Hot Springs. After dinner (really good food), you are free to jump into the hot spring. Just your group gets to enjoy this experience, you watch the sun set below the clouds, which are at the same elevation as you. Imagine that. Beverage in hand, stars in the night sky, excellent company, warm water drowns you as the cold air brushes up against your face and shoulders. No words can describe the satisfaction.

Day 3: Wake up early before sunrise, watch it as you take a final dip in the hot spring. About the time you are beyond satisfied, the other jeeps start rolling in. Nearly a hundred people show up, they push each other to get into the spring. You are done and you enjoyed it. You head back to town, with alot of great scenery again. Spend the rest of the day walking around Uyuni, nice small town, with some markets and pretty good food and pretty darn cheap. Next day, catch your flight out, and be content, you just did something not alot of people can claim. Travel fever, temporarily cured. 

Now: important, have protein bars, toilet paper (primitive through out the trip, yes, I do mean hole in the ground), a towel (REI sells some great camping ones). Sunscreen, hat, scarf, sunglasses, ipod for the long drives and warm clothes for when you are high in the mountains, and some light clothes when your burning in the desert heat.

If you want to enjoy it the most, go during rainy season. We went during dry season, (we are professionals, time is tight), and the benefits are a) cheaper b) less tourists.  

1 Comment

1 Comment

Rice to Riches: Sapa Valley

9 hour overnight train ride, on a machine built no later than the 1930's. 4 bunk beds, 1 small cabin. My travel buddy and I, along with a married couple. In such close quarters, you become intimate very quickly. Engaging in conversation, turns out our American cabin-mate is a Vietnam war veteran, recently retired. Naturally, we discussed the politics and war of that time, Johnson, McNamara, Diem, the war and his views. Nice 3 hour conversation of back and forth. Slept like a log, train ride, not as bad as I thought.

Arrive in the wee hours of the morning in a town an hour away from Sapa. You have to take a shuttle, to SAPA your tour guide will be waiting for you. Tour company, nice and cheap to have, but not really necessary. We arrive in Sapa, but hotel won't check you in. Its too early. So you head for a mediocre breakfast and lounge in the hotel lobby for a couple of hours till your tour guide shows up around noon. 

We head for the hike, eclectic group of folks. Spanish, Dutch, English and of course Egyptians. The hike across the rice patties and fields are beautiful. It was cloudy, but still very quite striking scenery. All along our tour guide is talking, and i have my ipod on. When we started the hike, a group of locals in traditional garments joined us. I wasn't sure why. they were very friendly, spoke English well, were inquisitive, down to earth and very warm. Which made me suspicious. Are we walking into a trap?

We stop for raw sugar cane, wundabar! fresh, natural and costs $1, enough to feed all the hikers. We pass by the remote villages, very tranquil, few people bother us. We arrive at a restaurant, prepared meal is ready for us. Simple, nothing special. Remember the locals following us: well, this the part where they want to sell you some handmade wallets, scarfs, etc. They were very respectful, and weren't pushy. When they were done, they simply left, home to their villages. I was wrong, I had my guard up, expecting something odd going on. I was very wrong. If you ever make it to Sapa, please buy something from them on my behalf, will gladly send you a check. 

After lunch, hike continues till we return to Sapa.  Hike is long (6-7 hours, but mostly downhill). Bring water and snacks, you will need it. We pass a couple of other villages, schools, rice patties, etc. Back in Sapa, we check into Panorama Hotel. Excellent place. Next day, we do the same thing. Food was good in Sapa, not as good as Hanoi, but still pretty good. Next day, we hike to another town and enjoy a motorcycle ride back to down, I call the Sapa roller coaster. All fun, lovely, natural, untouched part of Vietnam, very much recommended.  

 

1 Comment

Mystical: Ha Long Bay

Comment

Mystical: Ha Long Bay

Do not be dirt cheap when you book a cruise for Ha Long Bay. Horrible reviews a plenty for folks who decided to save a couple of bucks! Some tour agencies were offering $50 for 2 night cruises, horror stories abound.

If you are a party animal, there are the party boats: open bar and a really young crowd. But if you're looking for something laid back, with adults, where you can take in the scenery with a piece of mind, pay a little extra for it. Don't worry about pre-booking, there are a ton of tour operators all over Hanoi that cater to your demands on short notice.

We spent $150 per person, includes transportation in well equipped van. We used Pelican. Highly recommend them. On the way there (4 hour ride, scenic in some areas), the van will stop by a huge warehouse where special needs people create art work sold at pretty high prices. Your call to buy or not!!!

When you arrive at Ha Long bay, you are showered with hellos and lemon tea. As i said, nicest people on earth. Soon you embark on the boat, check into your room and meet in the main dining hall for a debrief. Rooms are spacious, bathrooms clean and well equipped in each room. After debrief, you are served excellent Vietnamese food, and are free to enjoy the scenery.

The boats move at no more than 15/20 miles an hour. You stop to visit a water village where you can kayak for half an hour. People actually do live in the middle of the water. Kinda like a primitive "Water World". 

When you come back, dinner is served, again excellent food. You mingle with some of the other guests, you will find them of excellent backgrounds, well educated and traveled. We met a couple from San Francisco, who were seconded to Singapore and exploring the area. We met others from the UK and Germany and we all exchanged valuable travel tips and advice. Also discussed geopolitics in Europe: especially immigration policy and Brexit. Seems like the Brits don't want to leave and the Germans open to accepting people from all over the world. My kind of people.

Go on deck, and enjoy watching the stars over this mystical location. Sleeping arrangements comfortable. Woke up early to catch the sun rise over the islands. Not to be missed, even with cloudy weather. There was a Tai-Chi session on deck. Didn't partake, but enjoyed watching the captain, who doubles as Tai-Chi master, lead the guests into strange exercises and poses. 

After a hearty breakfast, you head off to explore the caves on one of these islands. Not the best caves i've ever seen, but worth the long line and the crowds. Come back to the boat, head back to shore, and drive 4 hours back to Hanoi. 

Word to the wise: don't be cheap!

Comment

Comment

Hanoi,Vietnam: from dead to alive

In pitch darkness, we landed in Hanoi, Vietnam. Ride from airport to Hotel in the old quarter, 20 USD. No need to haggle with cab drivers, its the standard fare. City seemed dead at night. After checking in at our hotel, walking around, a motorcycle driver stopped us and offered to take us somewhere to eat. Being the explorers that we are, we threw caution to the wind. Ofcourse, our savvy driver couldn't pass up the opportunity to offer us the services of the world's second oldest profession. We respectfully declined, he insisted, so I told him we were gay. That shut him up for good. 

Being the sleazy driver that he is, we ended up in a shabby place, didn't eat there. Walked for a bit, ran into a Canadian, out all night celebrating St. Patty's day. She took us to Tong Duy Tan st, pedestrian only, with some good Vietnamese restaurants, local street vendors and fusion Vietnamese coffee shops. The Canadian is a therapist, and it was an entertaining evening of discussing ADHD and links to addiction, among other topics.

We booked this street food tour, despite not being tour fans, we said what the hell. Hanoi went from being semi-boring to pretty exciting. The tour lasted 3 hours, we had pho, pastries, noodles, Vietnamese coffee and deserts. Do not miss this in Hanoi. Company is called un-originally " Hanoi Street Food Tour", its on Hang Bac street. Ask for "Phoenix" to be your guide. She is amazing, embodies the spirit of the Vietnamese people. Friendly and hardworking. She is a big reason we started liking Hanoi. 

After the tour, roam around the Hang Bac area, there are bars, clubs, coffee shops, restaurants and it is crowded, with a mix of locals and backpackers, its safe and full of life. On the weekends, there is a bustling night market.

I do highly recommend visting a respectable spa after roaming the dusty city streets for a day or two. Prices are cheap ($20-$25) for a 60-90 minute massage. Quality is excellent. We went to Mido Spa based on a tip. 

What you need to know:

What to do: roam the old quarter and get lost. Vendors are very organized, each area will have the same kind of vendor, bamboo shops, souvenir shops, electronics, etc. Walk around the Hoan Kim lake. Visit the Hanoi Hilton Prison, but be aware, communist propaganda very much alive. Ho Chi Min Mausoleum, but you couldn't go in. The museum is fine, but propaganda again. Old palace: not really worth it. 

Food: Hanoi Street Food tour, do not miss ($25 pp). Word of advice: buy your own chop sticks! street vendors reuse them. The pho anywhere is top notch. Vendors on the street have better tasting Pho than the most upscale Vietnamese restaurant in Houston. Not kidding! lucked out with Banh Minh, tried 3 different places and just couldn't get a good one like we have here in the States. Not alot of meat or vegetables in the Hanoi version. Breakfast Banh Minh was good though. Can't go wrong with egg and bread. Do not leave Hanoi without sampling their beef jerky. It will put Texas jerky to shame. Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk, served hot or cold, is a crime to miss. For a good snack, cafe Runam. In the mood for something fancy: try Essence restaurant for authentic food and impeccable service.  

Where to stay: old quarter: spring flower hotel, less than $30 (for 2 people, a steal), clean, helpful staff, good breakfast and centrally located. Do not stay at twins hotel, despite receiving a trip advisor award, it didn't take us long to figure the pl;ace is a brothel, rooms smelled like smoke and cigarette burns on the bed. 

Costs: you can eat for less than $10 all day if yous tick with street food. The fanciest of restaurants, you'll pay $15 per meal. Cabs are cheap if you need one, $3-5 per ride in the old quarter. 

Next morning, the sleeping Hanoi became a bustling city, with mopeds buzzing everywhere. Forget strolling on the side walk, street vendors selling everything from food to garments have taken up permenant residence. Navigating your way around the old quarter is not difficult, and don't worry about the mopeds as you cross the street, they will make their own calculations to avoid hitting you. Enjoy the experience. 

We hit a couple of sites, Ho Chi Min Mausoleum, Ha Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton), St. Joesph's Cathedral, and Hoan Kiem lake. Easy to do in half a day. Now what? we waited for the rest of our travel party to arrive and spent the rest of the day roaming the bustling streets, visiting vendors, and making local conversation. Not too excited about what Hanoi had to offer, till..........

Comment